Discover the French Celtic Nation: The Brittany Region of France in 7 Stops

One of the more unique parts of the country of France is a region to the northwest. Brittany, also called known as Bretagne, has a rich Celtic heritage. The people who live in this part of France are fiercely proud of this, and it is celebrated in their customs and other ways of life. Similar to Cornish and Welsh, a number of the population speak Breton, a Celtic language and the only one widely used on the Europen mainland. Brittany has a clear and distinct identity, so much so that there is a portion of the region that would like independence from France.

As well as the unique culture, there are many reasons to visit Brittany. They have many different festivals, like the Interceltic festival in Lorient, which is visited by 700,000 people every year. There is plenty of opportunity for sea sports or exploration, from the 800 islands - a couple of which, like Milliau Island, you can easily walk to at low tide - to the 3,500 shipwrecks off the coast, which are perfect for divers new and experienced. If the water isn’t your thing, there are plenty of medieval towns and natural landscapes worth visiting, like the Brocliande Forest, which has some interesting Arthurian mythology behind it. Brittany is the place to go if you fancy doing something different.

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Know Before You Go

Getting There:

By Plane

There are a number of airports in Brittany you can travel to. The main airports are Rennes and Nantes, though there are smaller ones as well, like Brest and Dinard. Rennes, Brest and Nantes airport are serviced by Air France, and are easily reachable from within the country. Other airlines also travel to this region, like Ryanair servicing Dinard, Brest and Nantes.

Public Transport

There are ferry services operating from the UK that travel from Plymouth and Dover to Brittany. You can also easily reach Brittany by train. If you’re already in France, one of the routes starts at Paris and take the TGV to Rennes, the capital of Brittany. You can also reach Brest or Quimper.

Driving

A good way of visiting Brittany is by car. Unlike the rest of France, there are no motorways and, therefore, no tollway booths you need to pay. Instead, there are dual carriageways which make it easier both on yourself and your wallet. We prefer renting a car with Rent A Car , due to their wide availability of vehicles and locations to choose from. Book in advance to ensure you get the type of car you want for your ideal dates. In addition to car rental companies, there is carpooling available. If this is an option that interests you, check out the Brittany tourism website here. They also have a table of the distance between the main towns of Brittany to make planning that much more convenient for you.

Weather

Brittany’s position in France means it has some interesting climates. Though it is much closer to the Uk than the rest of France, it is warmer and drier here. In the summer, while the rest of the country may be suffering from heat waves, the western region is much cooler, while the Southern coast will be the warmest in Brittany. Its position along the Atlantic airstream makes for ideal sailing conditions, though sometimes storms can prevent this from happening. Winters can get cold and wet. The best time to visit this region would be between June and August, though still bring some spare layers and waterproofs with you.

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Stop 1: Rennes

Our first stop in Brittany is its capital Rennes. Close to the western land border with the rest of France, there are loads of historical sites and museums worth perusing. Among the different attractions are Renne’s medieval district and its colourful houses. Best explored on foot, you can also check out some of the trendy Michelin-star restaurants and indoor markets.

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The Thabor Gardens

In Rennes lies one of the most beautiful gardens in the whole of France. The Tabor Gardens, or Parc du Thabor, was originally designed for the Saint-Melaine Benedictine Abbey. The name itself comes from Mount Tabor in Lower Galilee in Israel. Redesigned by landscape artist Denis Bühler in the 19th century, there is plenty to explore, including aviaries, a rose garden with over 2,000 different varieties and a botanical garden with thousands of species of plants from all over the globe!

The gardens are open from 7:30am to 6:30pm. In the summer, the bandstand in Thabor regularly hosts performances. At over 10 hectares in size, there is enough to keep you occupied for a couple of hours at the very least.

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Rennes Cathedral

In the town of Rennes is its cathedral. Receiving its status as a monument historique in 1906, Rennes Cathedral or the Saint- Pierre Cathedral is a national heritage site and as such, is protected by the government. The Cathedral site has existed since the 6th Century, but there are traces of its many reconstructions, including the Gothic church that was built here in 1180. Though Rennes Cathedral itself was built as a dedication to Saint Peter, it is also dedicated to Saint Melaine, who was laid to rest here.

As well as being a marvellous display of architectural beauty dedicated to religion, there is also a treasury inside which holds other artefacts in here. These are so beautiful in fact, that a couple of the pieces were the subject of a robbery in 2007. You can still visit these relics. Among them is an Antwerp altarpiece, one of 180 remaining in the world today, but look, don’t touch!

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Les Champs Libres

A cultural centre of the city of Rennes is Les Champs Libre. Opened in 2006, it was designed by architect Christain de Portzamparc and is near the Rennes train station. From here, you can visit other attractions, including but not limited to the Library of Rennes Métropole, the Museum of Brittany, the Espace des sciences, and the Cantine numérique rennaise.

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Les Champs Libres has different opening times. During normal opening times, it is open from 12 pm to 7 pm Tuesday and Friday, and 2 pm to 7 pm on the weekend. These opening times can change depending on the holiday, and since this houses a lot of attractions within Rennes, it is worth keeping an eye out on.

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Musée de Bretagne

One of the museums within Les Champs Libres is le Musée de Bretagne, or the Museum of Brittany in French. Inside this social history museum are 2,300 different pieces, all in the areas of ethnology, photography, history, archaeology and decorative arts. This establishment displays information about the history of Brittany, and its one permanent exhibition on the subject matter has free entry.

The Museum of Brittany isn’t the only source of information within Les Champs Libre, not is it the only historical establishment in Rennes. Nearby is the Espace des sciences which is a family-centred science centre and planetarium, while the Museum of the Breton Resistance in Saint-Marcel documents the history of the Breton Resistance movement during the Second World War.

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Brocéliande Forest

About a 45-minute drive to the West of Rennes is the Brocéliande Forest. Also known as Paimpont Forest, it is a lovely walk with the nearby Comper Castle also worth a visit. However, what makes it fascinating is its link to the legend of King Arthur. More specifically, it is where Merlin is said to be resting after playing his part in the story.

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But why is there a connection to King Arthur here? Is he not an English piece of folklore? Well, here’s the thing. There has been a lot of debate among historians about the origins of the legend of King Arthur, and the region of Brittany does have Celtic ties, so it could be a form of cultural cross-pollination, so to speak. I don’t pretend to be a historian, so I couldn’t tell you for sure, though it does make for an interesting parable, and I encourage you to look it up for yourself.

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Where to Stay

Budget - Hotel Kyriad Rennes

Located near one of Rennes train stations, This cheap hotel is just on the edge of our budget definition, but its rating makes it an ideal place to stay here on a budget compared to other locations.

Mid Range - Le Magic Hall

This hotel in the Centre Ville District has uniquely decorated rooms fitting a different theme, and with just a short walk from Rennes’ attractions, the double room here is our best pick.

Luxury - Le Saint Antoine Hotel

This hotel also lies in the Centre Ville District, but offers more additional comforts, like a spa and private parking. 

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Stop 2: Saint-Malo

To the north of Brittany, about an hour's drive from Rennes, is the port city of Saint-Malo. Situated where the Rance River meets the sea, this city has a lot of historical significance, as this is once where privateers - or state-approved pirates - used to live. There are many reminders of this period, from the tall granite walls that protect the old town of Saint-Malo, as well as museums like La Demure de Corsaire, an 18th-century home turned museum.

During the Second World War, its location on the British Channel meant it saw a lot of fighting, and was seriously damaged. It has since been restored and nowadays, it is Brittany’s most visited city and a ferry port. Though there are many historical marvels to witness here, there are also more modern attractions for tourists, like the Grand Aquarium and, of course with it being by the sea, the many beaches. 

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Intra-Muros (Old Town)

As a historic port city, one of the main attractions is the Old Town of Saint-Malo. Also known as Intra-Muros - which literally translates to within walls - this is the historic centre of the city. It’s here you can find attractions like the previously mentioned Le Demure de Corsaire and other places which detail the history of this interesting city.

With so much to see and learn, it is easy to get lost within the walls of Saint-Malo, and that might be your thing. However, you might also want a more organised way of exploring. A decent way of getting around Intra-Muros and the rest of Saint-Malo is by booking a private walking tour. Along with showing the highlights of this town, your guide will be flexible enough to show you something of your own personal interest.

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Mont St Michel

To the east of Saint-Malo, about a 45-minute drive, is Mont St Michel. Though it technically sits within the region of Normandy, it is still a tourist site worth visiting that is well within reach of Brittany. In fact, you can book yourself a tour from Saint-Malo to visit Saint Michel. Many of the buildings are protected national monuments in France. 

As a fortified town on a tidal island, the natural features made it very difficult to conquer. The Hundred Years’ War was a brutal period that ravaged much of France, yet during that time, St Michel remained unconquered. Can you imagine? You’re an English knight trying to invade, then the tide rolls in, and the very armour designed to protect you instead drowns you. Nasty. Though it attracts millions of tourists every year, only a handful of people live on the island permanently. 

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Saint-Vincent Cathedral of Saint-Malo

On the edge of Old Town is the Saint-Vincent Cathedral of Saint-Malo. Quite a mouthful of a name. Built-in 1146 for the then Bishop of Aleth, Jean de Châtillon, the cathedral is a fascinating mixture of different architectural styles, featuring Romanesque, Gothic, High Gothic and Renaissance motifs. It was badly damaged during the battle of Saint-Malo in 1944 and took over two decades to restore to its previous condition.

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Now, it is a national monument of France. A stunning piece of architectural beauty from the outside, it also houses a beautiful interior. Its stained glass windows have many depictions, some of which include the great Breton saints, including Saint Malo himself. Much of the restoration was done thanks to architects Raymond Cornon and Perre Prunet. Cornon has notably worked on other reconstruction projects in the Brittany region.

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National Fort

Sitting on one of Brittany’s many islands, just a short distance away from Saint-Malo’s Old Town is the National Fort. Now a national monument, the fort was originally called Fort Royal and was built in the 17th Century by Vauban, a military architect under King Louis XIV. Originally, the fort was a defensive structure that was used to protect the port. Public executions were also done here. It was also used by Wehrmacht in WW2 when the Germans tried to build defences along the coastline.

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Depending on the tide, you can take a short walk up to the Fort and see inside. It is only open in June and October. You can usually tell when Fort is open when they fly the French flag. To check for opening times, visit their website.

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Where to stay

Budget - Cour ville Collet

At the time of writing this, this bed and breakfast is a fairly new stay. However, it is one of the cheaper and higher-rated stays in Saint-Malo, perfect for a cheap weekend away.

Mid-Range - Hotel Le Nautilus

Set in a renovated 17th-century building, this hotel is just a short walk away from many of Saint-Malo’s attractions and has free bikes to use (depending on availability) and a bar.

Luxury - Hotel La Villefromoy

Situated within a mansion, La Villefromoy features 26 guest rooms, where you can enjoy breakfast with a view of the sea or relax in the lounge bar after a day of exploration.

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Stop 3: Dinan

Following the Rance River south of Saint-Malo is the small town of Dinan. It isn’t too far from Saint-Malo, only about half an hour's drive. In fact, you can easily stay in Saint-Malo and make a quick day visit out of Dinan. A smaller medieval town, Dinan is enclosed by three kilometres of ramparts and is defended by the nearby castle. 

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As historical monuments go, this town feels like a snapshot of French history - should you want the authentic Medieval vibe, walk down the steep Rue du Jerzual, or start at the harbour and make your way up through Dinan, admiring the different architectural styles that have developed in this town throughout the centuries. Alternatively, you can go to the port and take a boat ride up the canal, or even take a little tourist train - these are a common sight around France, and a fun way of getting around. Though a relatively small town, it is still a must-visit for photographers and history lovers.

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Château de Dinan

While the ramparts all encircle the town of Dinan, they all meet at the keep of the Château de Dinan. Registered as a national monument in 1886, it was built in the 14th century by Jean IV, Duke of Brittany. One of the interesting things to note about this castle is the role it played. When it was first built, it wasn’t a defensive structure. Rather it was more used to keep the populace under control. 

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Then, in the 16th century, during the Wars of Religion, it would be used to protect the people. It opened as a museum in 1906, and across the ramparts, you can find different pieces of information about the castle. Dinan Castle is closed between January and March, and has different opening times throughout the year.

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Dinan's Clock Tower

Want the best view of Dinan? Then go visit the Tower of l’Horloge. Functioning as Dinan’s Clock Tower, this tower was built in the fifteenth century by Francois II, Duke of Albany, and is over 40 metres tall. Originally it functioned as a watchtower, monitoring the population. Its clock was installed by Anne of Brittany in 1507, and it still works half a millennia later! 

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You have to climb up 158 steps, but the view from the top is worth it. Be mindful of the date, though! It’s only open to the public between April and September. Access to the tower closes at 6:30 pm in the evening.

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Where to Stay

Budget - Hotel De La Porte Saint-Malo

Situated within a 15th Century house, this cosy and well-priced hotel is the perfect spot for a short stay in Dinan.

Mid Range - Maison d'hôtes & Gîtes Domaine de la Garaye

For the price, you get a lot of bang for your buck at a double room at this bed and breakfast, such as a heated pool and a terrace.

Luxury - La Maison Pavie

If you’re visiting a medieval town, why not stay in a medieval building with the comforts of modernity? This accommodation offers free parking and breakfast is included in the reservation.

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Stop 4: Vannes

Our next stop on this list is under two hours' drive away from Dinan, so get comfy if you ever make this journey. Another Medieval town, Vannes is named after a seafaring tribe of Celts that called Brittany home, known as the Veneti. Next to the national park of the Gulf of Morbihan, you can take a boat out to the nearby islands, as well as visit the town itself. One date you should put in your diary if you’re visiting is Vannes Historical Festival, which takes place every July. Much like Dinan, this fortified town is dripping in history.

Vannes Old Town

The best place to start your visit to Vannes is in the historic centre. Vannes Old Town is another snapshot of a bygone age in Brittany, with preserved medieval streets. In the Place Lices, where once there were jousting tournaments, now there are fruit and vegetable markets. To add to your cultural tour of this area are two museums - the Château Gaillard, a 15th-century mansion that exhibits the town’s history and archaeology, and La Cohue, a fine arts museum located in what used to be the home of the Breton parliament from 1675 to 1689. 

Also, while you’re out on a wander of this area, be on the lookout for Mr and Mrs Vannes. They are two wooden sculptures which are hanging out on the corner of one of the houses in the historic centre, specifically at Place Valencia.

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Vannes Cathedral

Saint Peter is a pretty significant character in the bible, so it’s no surprise that he has another cathedral in France dedicated to him. The current Vannes Cathedral sits at the top of the Old Town sector and is fashioned in the Gothic architectural style, replacing the old Romanesque cathedral during the 15th Century (the tower is the only thing remaining of the old building). 

Originally built in 1020, this cathedral is the seat of the bishop of Vannes and even makes a cameo appearance in The Three Musketeers by Alexandre Dumas. There is no entry fee, and sometimes there are guided tours of the cathedral.

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Château de l'Hermine

We’ve talked a lot about castles in this list. Most of them were defensive structures, and a couple had people living in them. The Chateau de l’Hermine is a castle that was used for both. When the Dukes of Brittany first arrived to Vannes, they didn’t have a home worthy of their noble status, and so, they built the Chateau de l’Hermine to be their home, along with the city’s surrounding walls in 1380. 

After centuries of usage, it was eventually abandoned and rebuilt in the Neo-classical style of architecture that you can see today. After swapping owners, it eventually fell into the hands of the state, who used as the Artillery School of the XIth Army Crops. Nowadays, its use by the state is for more benign administrative duties.

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Gulf of Morbihan

Lastly is the area Vannes is situated in: the Gulf of Morbihan. ‘Mor Bihan’ is Breton for ‘little sea,’ the Gulf stretches between the towns of Vannes, Auraym, Azron and Sarzeau. There are many ways you can indulge in what the Gulf has to offer, whether that be sailing among the many islets at sea or bird watching at the reserve of Séné Marshes. In and outside Vannes, you can find oyster farms and small ports where local fishermen make their daily catches.

One of the ways you can see the Gulf of Morbihan is by walking GR® 34. Though this coastal walking route stretches from Mont St Michel to the bridge of Saint-Nazaire, you don’t need to do the full thing to enjoy the Gulf of Morbihan - the full route is just under 100 miles long. Or if you’re a hardcore hiker, maybe do the full thing and experience the highlight of Brittany’s coast.

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Carnac Stones/ Tumulus Saint-Michel

About a half hour's drive away from Vannes, in the nearby town of Carnac are two interesting features. The Carnac Stones are thousands of prehistoric standing stones spread across three separate alignments. I like to imagine that some prehistoric tribe saw Stonehenge and thought, “I can do better than that. Here, hold my beer.” Whatever the case, though it isn’t as well-known a site, it does make for a much more interesting visit. The nearby Museum of Prehistory will shed some light on these stones.

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Nearby is another fascinating feature - the largest grave mound in continental Europe, the Saint-Michel Tumulus. Existing since the fifth millennium BC, it wasn’t really investigated until its exploration in 1862, when researchers found a funeral vault full of archaeological marvels, making it a national monument in 1889.

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Where to Stay

Budget - Appartement Duplex proche Port avec vélos

Capable of sleeping five, this apartment close to the port of Vannes has bicycles, making your stay not only comfortable but convenient for getting around.

Mid Range - Appartement centre-ville avec terrasse INDUS

Another apartment within the centre of Vannes, this modern one-bedroom apartment is perfect for a solo stay or for travelling as a couple.

Luxury - Un Appartement PENTHOUSE d'Exception sur le Port de Vannes

And last but not least for Vannes is this luxury penthouse apartment with two bedrooms and free parking available.

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Stop 5: Quimper

If you follow the N165 eastbound along the coast of Brittany, after about an hour and 20 minutes, you’ll find the town of Quimper. Split in half by the Odet River, Quimper is a port that has traditional medieval houses throughout the town, with the twin spires of the Gothic-style cathedral towering over the rest of the town. Among Quimper’s museums are the Breton county museum and the Faience Museum, which display the archaeological finds and crafted works from within this part of Brittany.

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Quimper Cathedral

While previous cathedrals in this itinerary have been dedicated to Saint Peter, the Quimper Cathedral is actually dedicated to Saint Corentin, one of the seven founding saints of Brittany. He’s also the patron saint of seafood - legend has it that when he was living as a hermit, he would cut a small piece of a bit of fish to feed himself, and that piece would regrow. He also apparently became a bishop of Quimper - then Cornouaille -  at the request of King Gradlon during the 5th Century.

Described as the jewel of Breton gothic art, this spectacular structure has a mesmerising exterior and a stunning interior. If you want to see the cathedral for yourself, the Quimper Tourism site also has you covered on that end with a virtual tour, though it is much better seen in person.

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Musée des Beaux-Arts de Quimper

Out of all the musuems in Quimper - which are all worth visiting in their own right - the crowning jewel of them is le Musée des Beaux-Arts de Quimper, or the Museum of Fine Arts of Quimper in English. The museum has its routes in the 19th century when Count Jean-Marie de Silguy left his collection of artwork on the condition that there was a museum built to display them. How much artwork? 1,200 paintings, 2,000 drawings and 12,000 different prints.

The museum now puts 700 of these pieces on permanent display while acting as an establishment to showcase artwork from around Europe, particularly that of local artists. Some of the pieces displayed can be found on the museum’s homepage if you want a taster of what can be found here.

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Where to Stay

Budget - Hotel de le Gare

Cheap and in a convenient location, a single room at Quimper’s train station provides cheap accommodation while being a ten-minute walk from the town centre.

Mid Range - DORMIR EN VILLE‍

These private studios are an ideal location for a short stay in Quimper, being half a kilometre away from the historic centre and offering free public parking in front of the property.

Luxury - Hôtel Ginkgo SPA Biloba

Located in the Locmaria district of Quimper, this hotel has everything to make your stay extra comfortable - free parking, a spa, and bar to help you unwind. 

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Stop 6: Pont-Aven

In between Quimper and Lorient in the southwest of Brittany is the little town of Pont-Aven. In 2019, only 3,000 permanent residents were recorded as living there. So what makes it such a big deal? Well, this mill town was the subject matter of some of the paintings by impressionist Paul Gauguin. He also organised a school of painters here, and you can still see some of their works at the local art galleries.

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Musée de Pont-Aven

Though there are many art galleries worth visiting in Pont-Aven, the Musée de Pont-Aven, or Museum of Pont-Aven is one of the most significant. Opened in 1985, this museum highlights a lot of the works which were influenced by the Pont-Aven School art movement. With over 200 different paintings and works on display, there is much to immerse potential visitors in the art style that put Pont-Aven on the map.

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If you wish to visit the museum, be mindful of the opening times. For example, if you want to visit between November and March because of the quieter foot traffic, it is open Tuesday to Sunday, but only for three and a half hours between 2 pm and 5:30 pm. Hours are extended in July and August from 10 am to 7 pm.

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Bois d'Amour

If you’re travelling through Brittany with your significant other, why not take a romantic hike through the Bois d’Amour (translated into English as the Wood of Love)?  This walk among the trees and lakes winds by the river Aven, and acted as a source of inspiration for many artists who worked in this region.

This isn’t just a nice spot to have a private moment with that special someone. There are also bits of information dotted throughout the park that highlights the history of this region, including a story about Paul Gaugin and one of his students, Paul Sérusier.

Where to stay

Budget - Mobilhomes du Kerdidrouz du Léon PONT AVEN

While there are limited properties around Pont Aven, these mobile homes provide a cheap place at a campground. Ideal for families travelling on a budget.

Mid Range - Maison Castel Braz

For a reasonably priced stay at Pont Aven, this hotel has views of the nearby river and offers free parking for those travelling by car.

Luxury - Kermaria River View Studio Suite

This private studio has been recently renovated and is perfect for a solo or couples trip, with free parking available. 

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Stop 7: Perros-Guirec

Though there are other places in Brittany worth visiting, our last stop is the seaside resort town of Perros-Guirec. A two-hour drive north of Pont-Aven, this seaside resort town has been a holiday destination since the 19th Century and is the perfect spot to finish your journey through Brittany, whether it be sailing to the nearby islands, chilling on the beach or taking a stroll through the idyllic little town. 

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Pink Granite Coast

Stretching from over 20 kilometres from Perros-Guirec to Trebeurden is the Pink Granite Coast. The reason Granite has different shades of colour is because it is composed of quartz and a mineral called feldspar. The colour of granite can change depending on how much feldspar there is, with pink being the rarest form of granite.

Pink granite is mined in only a few places - Brazil, China, Corsica and Brittany. That, coupled with the coast being eroded by the wind and sea, and the final result is the iconic jagged shores that make up the Pink Granite Coast. If you fancy a swim, the nearby Trestraou beach has beaches of pink sand and makes for a nice swimming spot. When it’s not too cold, of course. It’s still the English Channel.

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Ploumanac'h Lighthouse

If you go along the Pink Granite Coast, you might mistake Ploumanac'h Lighthouse for an interesting geographical feature. However, this lighthouse is actually made from the same pink granite that is found in this area. First built in 1860, it was destroyed by the Nazis during the Second World War and was rebuilt in 1946. The version you see now was built by architect Henry and Auffret. 

Ploumanac'h Lighthouse marks the entrance to the channel that leads to the fishing town that the lighthouse shares the same name with. Ploumanac'h translates from Breton as ‘Monk’s Pool.’

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Sentier des Douaniers

There are many trails throughout the area that you can go on around Perros-Guirec. However, the best one to do is the Sentier des Douaniers. Connecting to the much larger GR®34 coastal path, this section of the route is a 14 miles stretch that takes you through the pink granite coast. 

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If you don’t fancy the full GR®34 coastal route, doing even just part of the Sentier des Douaniers will make for a nice evening walk, watching the sunset light up the pink granite. If you are adventurous enough to do the full 99-mile trek, Perros-Guirec will make a nice final stop on your adventure.

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Where to stay

Budget - Studio Top

For this budget stay, this studio apartment is barely a kilometre away from the nearest beach and has free parking available, as well as a full apartment to yourself.

Mid range - Maison atypique au centre historique de Lannion

Though not in the town of Perros-Guirec itself, this homely accommodation in the town of Lannion is a nice cosy place to finish off your trip to Brittany.

Luxury - Appartement plage de Trestraou 45m2

And finally, slap bang on Pink Granite coast is this gorgeous apartment. Literally a stone's throw away from the beach, there is plenty of opportunity for some rest and relaxation.